I didn't get much done on the Baneblade, I added some metallic powders on the barrel and cleaned up some of the engine spaces, but what I did work on was my Lord Castellan Creed model that I picked up last weekend. I don't know how effective he will be in this particular list I am bring to the Bay Area Open, though he seems rather thematic as it is a big epic battle.
I am on the fence about the border of his coat, as it is a bit bright, though I kind of like it. I also left his hands painted as if they are gloves, as what self respecting general doesn't wear gloves in the field?
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
Monday, February 27, 2012
Major progress on the GW Baneblade - Using Oil Paints, Pigments and Floor Shine
I stopped by my local GW store and got some tips on the next few phases of the process, as the Imperial Armour book is pretty clear, I always find it is easier to talk to someone who has done it before. For one thing, spraying my model with gloss floor cleaner made me a bit nervous. I've also never worked with oil paints before and their use was a bit intimidating.
After about an hour of walk through on methods and items needed for this type of weathering I felt pretty confident and went shopping. I picked up the needed floor cleaner and oil paints. I spent most of Saturday playing around with these new techniques, and like the previous ones I've been trying, realized they are pretty easy and just take some time.
I used my airbrush to spray on the Pledge and then started up with the oil paints. It really does flow extremely well, and works better then any water based wash I have ever used. I then applied the rust pigments. These are how the model looked at the end of the day
The weathering process really darkens the model. Here is the Shadowsword, that I haven't begun the process on yet.
On the second day I finished the mud, did the road wheels, and started on the Commissar. I was a bit dubious about the matte spray being able to remove the shine, but sure enough the model doesn't have the floor shine look on it anymore. I also played with using black metallic pigments on the cannon. I'm not 100% happy with it, but it does look better.
After about an hour of walk through on methods and items needed for this type of weathering I felt pretty confident and went shopping. I picked up the needed floor cleaner and oil paints. I spent most of Saturday playing around with these new techniques, and like the previous ones I've been trying, realized they are pretty easy and just take some time.
I used my airbrush to spray on the Pledge and then started up with the oil paints. It really does flow extremely well, and works better then any water based wash I have ever used. I then applied the rust pigments. These are how the model looked at the end of the day
The weathering process really darkens the model. Here is the Shadowsword, that I haven't begun the process on yet.
On the second day I finished the mud, did the road wheels, and started on the Commissar. I was a bit dubious about the matte spray being able to remove the shine, but sure enough the model doesn't have the floor shine look on it anymore. I also played with using black metallic pigments on the cannon. I'm not 100% happy with it, but it does look better.
I don't have a ton left to do. Need to highlight the Commissar, finish the sites, and add some metallic pigment to the guns. I also might add some more details to the Heavy Bolters, I'm not sure if it's overkill.
Friday, February 24, 2012
Forgeworld Shadowsword battle damaged with Imperial Armour methods
I continued my work towards finishing my super heavies for the Bay Area Open by completing the battle damage for the second vehicle I may be bringing, my Forgeworld Shadowsword. I did almost exactly what I had done to the Baneblade, with the main exception of saving the washing of the engine portion until I finish the oil paint in the cracks step.
Next on the menu is to get some floor finish and oil paints to try using them for getting paints and rain effects on the armor of the vehicles. This is the part I am most nervous about, hopefully it is as easy as most of the steps so far have been.
I used the same Baneblade decal sheet I used on the Baneblade to add some stickers. I decided to name this tank "Wrath" from the available choices. Once again I went with the number 31 to show some solidarity with the Baneblade. Eventually I may get another Baneblade so I have a mixed company of Super Heavies.
Next on the menu is to get some floor finish and oil paints to try using them for getting paints and rain effects on the armor of the vehicles. This is the part I am most nervous about, hopefully it is as easy as most of the steps so far have been.
I used the same Baneblade decal sheet I used on the Baneblade to add some stickers. I decided to name this tank "Wrath" from the available choices. Once again I went with the number 31 to show some solidarity with the Baneblade. Eventually I may get another Baneblade so I have a mixed company of Super Heavies.
Thursday, February 23, 2012
Adding Battle Damage to the Baneblade the Imperial Armour Way
Last night I got further along on my Bandeblade I am working on for the Bay Area Open. I've got about two weeks, so I still think I have plenty of time to finish this one as well as my Shadowsword so I can have a game day decision about what to use. I think the Baneblade may be better in most games, though I will really want the Shadowsword if I have to go against other super heavies.
On with the battle damage. I used the desert yellow to "chip" the paint of the green sections, and I used Adeptus Battlegrey on the yellow to show the paint chipped away to bare metal. I also added some decals. I Wanted to get most of this done before I start adding weathering powders.
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
Forgeworld Shadowsword and GW Baneblade Painting Progress - Using Imperial Armour Masterclass Scheme
I spent most of the weekend working on my two super heavies so I can take one to the Bay Area Open Narrative Event in a couple of weeks. I haven't decided which to bring, so I am painting both.
I had gotten the Imperial Armour Model Masterclass book from my Brother-in-Law for Christmas and I decided to try using one of the paint schemes and weathering techniques.
I had gotten the Baneblade 90% assembled, so I spent some time finishing the build on Friday night.
How I received the Baneblade.
I decided to drill out a few items and install a commissar lord into the turret.
The commissar lord needed something to stick too, so I used a base as a "bottom" to attach him.
He was a bit short and needed some green stuff to fit in the space.
I used a white primer to help the Desert Yellow "pop".
After one coat of Yellow....I realized I needed another, so I did two.
I masked off the camo sections, using the scheme and instructions in the book.
After spraying on the Catachan Green.
Peeling off the first bit of tape...
And all the paint removed. As you can see I had a bit of a problem with the tape pulling off some paint. I am not sure if it was the primer or the tape's fault, in the future I am going to try using some different tape as this was just 3M delicate painters tape.
I had gotten the Imperial Armour Model Masterclass book from my Brother-in-Law for Christmas and I decided to try using one of the paint schemes and weathering techniques.
I had gotten the Baneblade 90% assembled, so I spent some time finishing the build on Friday night.
How I received the Baneblade.
I decided to drill out a few items and install a commissar lord into the turret.
The commissar lord needed something to stick too, so I used a base as a "bottom" to attach him.
He was a bit short and needed some green stuff to fit in the space.
All done.
I used a white primer to help the Desert Yellow "pop".
After one coat of Yellow....I realized I needed another, so I did two.
I masked off the camo sections, using the scheme and instructions in the book.
After spraying on the Catachan Green.
Peeling off the first bit of tape...
And all the paint removed. As you can see I had a bit of a problem with the tape pulling off some paint. I am not sure if it was the primer or the tape's fault, in the future I am going to try using some different tape as this was just 3M delicate painters tape.
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