Painting Retribution of Scyrah Myrmidons

I took a break last weekend from the Khador project to paint up some Retribution of Scryah models I had picked up when my wife showed some interest in the game.  They are a nice change of pace from the dirty red paint style of my Khador.  The clean lines of the models lend themselves to putting down layers  with airbrush quite well.

I had picked up the paint set as a basis, and it included the three basic colors I used for the base coat and highlights.

I started by priming with white.  I went with white due to the color palate I knew I would be working with.I  then put down the first color, which was Arcane Blue.

After the Arcane Blue I laid a coat of Underbelly Blue, being careful to keep it out of the cracks of the joints and recesses.

 The last color I used was Morrow White.  I ended up putting some more on after the below picture, as I just didn't think it came out white enough.

Behemoth on Menoth Wreck Marker Painted

I spent some time this week finishing up the Khador Behemoth I had mounted on the Menoth Wreck Marker that I wrote about earlier.   As I like both how the model looks and how it plays, I coudln't wait to get it painted up. 

Like all warjacks painting up the Behemoth was a mix of infantry and tank painting techniques.    I did end up painting it pretty close to how it's pictured in the book, I figure that because it's a character warjack it should look pretty close to the art, as there is only one of this guy out there pounded heads.

I went with a Grey primer, and I used multiple coats as this model contained so much metal.

 I fired up the airbrush and put a coat of the Khador base red.

 I then put a coat  of the Khador highlight color on top of it.   It's a subtle effect, and hard to see in pictures.

  I then gave it a wash of Secret Weapon Miniatures "Dark Sepia".  It really brings the color down, helps add in shadowing and make the model look more "used".  I can't say enough about the washes that Secret Weapon makes, they are great.  Good pigments, and amazing flow.  After the wash I painted the metal bits with P3 Cold Steel.   This was my first time using a P3 metal, and I had heard from the guy I learn most of my painting techniques from that they kind of suck, and I should have listened.  Poor coverage, and very meh.  The opposite of the rest of the line, while I have really been impressed with most of the P3 paints, the metals are clearly a weak link.

I then added some GW badab black to the metal bits, as well as painting the black bits. 

 Time for a bit of hobby magic.  I added highlights and painted up the base.

 I decided, after some feedback, that my "blue glowing" bits/gears was a bit distracting, and decided to change it to more traditional gears.  I used some MIG pigments and Secret Weapon Miniatures pigments to add metal and black to it.

 The model, before chipping and basing.

 I began the process of chipping the armor, using the torn foam method.

I then highlighted the chipping with some GW chainmail to show paint that has been chipped to the metal.

 The base before adding snow.

 The base with snow and grass. This will help tie the model together with the rest of the army

 Finally done!!

Khador Behmoth mounted on a Menoth Wreck Marker

When searching for information about the Behemoth model I found this post on the Privateer Press forums  The post details how a Behemoth was mounted on a wreck marker.  I liked the idea so much, I decided to do the same thing.  The thread author used a Cygnar model, but as my main opponent is a Menoth player I decided to use a Menoth wreck token.

It took some time to get the pose right, and I used a lot of greenstuff to make it work.   In the end I am very happy with how it looks and I can't wait to start actually painting this beast.

The most amount of time was this step, figuring out how to mount the legs on the base, and set the pose.

 I decided to drill out the exhaust.  I have done it on my other warjacks, and I really like the look.

 I pre-assmbled  much of the torso  before mounting on the legs. 

 Testing the pose, and mounting the torso.

 The model with the torso mounted, and arms installed. I haven't installed the spikes on the shoulders, and I think I am going to leave it as is.  I am not a big fan of the spikes, they look kind of goofy to me. 

Finecast Drama - Letter I wrote to Games Workshop

I've blogged about my recent problems with Finecast at length, with multiple posts recently.  During my last call to Games Workshokp, the representative asked me to return the miscast parts.  He sent a return label, so that I can send them to him.  He didn't say it, but I am wondering if he was doubting my claim.

What I decided to do, besides sending the parts, was send some of the pictures I posted, detailing the probelems.  I also realized...this was a good time to write a letter!!

I am under no delusion that it will do anything, most likely it will get tossed in the trash by this customer service represnative.  Though, as an American, I feel somehow better writing my angry letter to a business I feel slighted me.

I've included the letter below, and I would encourage others to take a minute and rant like I did.  I genuinly feel better for having done it.   I did remove names because the internet is, from what I hear, not a great place to post actual names.

May 10, 2012

Mr. X

Games Workshop

6211 East Holmes Road

Memphis, TN 38141

Dear Mr. X,

Since hearing of the implementation of Finecast I greatly anticipated this change by Games Workshop.  The first model I purchased was a Draigo model that I had previously purchased in metal.  I was so impressed with the weight; I decided to replace models, simply because of the greater ease in transportation of the Finecast material.  Even though this first model had some casting issues, as did its replacement, I accepted these at growing pains from a new product.   

One year later, it is clear to me that these problems are no longer growing pains. My recent experience with the Hellcannon has been beyond frustrating.  After receiving a kit that contained ten miscast pieces, eight of the ten replacements had issues.  As someone who works in manufacturing, I have some experiences with quality control and production.  New processes are always difficult; I understand that it can be difficult to anticipate problems when you move from the testing to full production phases of new process. 

What I do not understand, is why these defective models are making their way into customer’s hands.  As a manufacturer, I would be embarrassed beyond belief if my customers received a product as inferior as some of these miscasts are.  A cursory glance at the parts I received in the Hellcannon box (or the replacements sent) by an employee tasked with quality control would reveal these problems, ranging from small bubbles to large pieces of the model missing.    

It is becoming clear to me that Games Workshop either doesn’t perform quality control checks on its production lines, or that its quality control guidelines are way outside what I, as a customer, consider acceptable. 

I don’t want Finecast to go away, like some would.  That’s not the solution I want to see as Finecast is a great product, but something needs to change.  What I would hope Games Workshop to begin to do is either fix the process that causes these miscasts, or if that is impossible or not feasible, instill some sort of quality control that approaches the expectations of customers like myself.  I would also hope that you would share my thoughts with your colleagues and managers as you see fit. 

Very Truly Yours,

Me

Attachments :

1)    Photos of the replacement parts I received

Citadel Finecast Miscasts - Part 2 - Replacement Miscasts

The replacements for the miscast Hellcannon I wrote about last week arrived.   I was a bit shocked to see that out of 10 replacement parts shipped, 8 of them had miscasts.

My previous theory about Games Workshop is the quality issues are on the production side.  Now I am wondering if the company as a whole doesn't understand what quality is.  Replacement parts, from what I have heard, are packed by the customer service rep who takes you phone call.

This means one of two things.

One, is that the customer service rep, who is aware I got miscasts just didn't care enough to check that the parts they sent were not miscast.

Or...

Two, that Games Workshop doesn't know what quality is, or thinks that what the community considers to be miscasts are not miscasts.

Either scenario is disturbing, and I truly hope it's the first one.  You can fix a lazy rep, though if the problem is truly systemic at Games Workshop and they actually think this type of casting is okay, its an even bigger problem. If this is the case, it should be 100%  unacceptable  to the community.

After calling Games Workshop to demand more replacements I am leaning towards the second scenario.  When I described the miscasts, how small bubbles were showing up on many surfaces, he tried to state that Liquid Green Stuff was made to fix that problem, just as green stuff was used to fix metal issues.  I retorted that I had never gotten metal models like this, and that I thought Finecast was supposed to be higher quality, not lower.  He had no response for that, and arranged to have more bits sent.  I am hoping these are much better. 

I took some pictures of each of the pieces I received as replacements and highlighted some of the problems.  I didn't take a picture of it, but the two cannon halves don't even fit together, one of the pieces is warped ( I think they didn't pour enough resin in the mold, as you can see through many parts of it) enough it won't fit with the other half.

You may have to click on the photos to enlarge them, so you can see the miscasts.

Painting Khador Warjacks - Now with Battle Damage

I decided to add some additional details to my models after some input both from my gaming buddies and a few forums I frequent to my two Warjacks.  I used a similar technique from how I painted up my Baneblade earlier this year, and wrote about here.

I also tried a new technique my Warmachine Sensei showed me, adding metal itself to the chipping to help show multiple layers of the damage.  It was a bit tedious, but the effect was way worth it.  You can see damage that went to the primer and then damage that went all the way to the metal, just like on real battle damaged equipment. 

On with the pictures!!